A LUNCH AT BORGATTA
by nic
Over the years, I have had the immense pleasure of being hosted for lunch by Maria-Luisa and Emilio of Borgatta on numerous occasions. Both in their late 80’s, they continue to bewilder me with their youthful energy, undeniable warmth, and contagious enthusiasm for life.
Before we get into lunch, though, let’s go back a few years as the story of how I came to meet Emilio is an interesting one. In April 2016 I took my mother to a wine fair with me in Vicenza. Upon arrival, we separated - I was there to educate my palate and taste as many wines as I could, whilst she was there to enjoy herself and find some good wines for her cellar. At the end of the day, she told me about some fabulous wines she tasted from an ‘old man in Piemonte’ and that she had already arranged to visit him to pick up a few cases of wine.
Fast forward a year, and I was at my mother’s place, where she pulled out a 2011 Dolcetto she had purchased from Emilio, a bottle I will never forget. The wine had incredible depth; it was dense but balanced, complex and precise, and had the undeniable imprint of this part of southern Piemonte. More importantly, though it had so much soul… that invisible, indescribable trait that separates good wines from truly great ones. The rest is history. I contacted Emilio shortly after, marking the start of a long working relationship and friendship that has warmed my heart for the better part of the last decade. So thank you, mum, I owe you that one.
So back to lunch. I have learned from experience that one must prepare for the occasion of being hosted at Maria Luisa’s table. The sheer amount of food served is not for the faint of heart, and I have often had to warn people who have joined me at Borgatta over the years to ‘pace themselves.
Whilst there are always some subtle changes to the menu, a lunch at Borgatta does tend to follow a predictable pattern. The table is always set with an array of plentiful local cured meats. These can include the likes of prosciutto, cotechino, salami, mortadella, and more. They are accompanied by some of the largest grissini I have eaten, always spread throughout the table, and always perfectly crunchy and delightful. Alongside the meats are usually one or two seasonal vegetable dishes, some of my favourites being roasted courgettes with breadcrumbs or the locally foraged mushrooms. This initial part of the meal is the most dangerous – the food is so tasty, but indulge too much now, and you shall suffer as the meal progresses.
Next up are the pastas. Yes, that is pastas with a ‘s.’ Maria Luisa makes everything from scratch and typically serves up two variations of local ravioli. One tends to be a meat-based filling served with a beef ragu, whilst the second tends to be made with local foraged herbs in both the filling and the dough and served with a simple, lightly seasoned butter sauce. Those who know me well know that pasta is my favourite food, so this is where discipline becomes difficult for me. Not one but two incredible homemade pastas preceding what is usually a very hearty main course, regardless of the season.
Next up are the main courses. Again, courses with an ‘s.’ This will usually be an array of meats roasted to perfection in the oven, and seasoned with herbs from their garden. These could be chicken and beef, or sometimes pork or lamb, and will usually be served with a side of perfectly softened and seasoned potatoes, or some more roasted vegetables to accompany the meats. Thankfully dessert tends to be a lighter affair, usually an array of seasonal fruits served alongside some dark and dense coffee.
I haven’t yet mentioned the wine as I feel it needs its own paragraph. Emilio ages all of his wines in bottle for a minimum of 4 years in his cellar before release, meaning that most visits involve some sort of vertical tasting of the past couple of vintages of his dolcetto and barbera and the four or five vintages that will follow. On a couple of occasions, I have also had the unbelievable fortune of being treated to some bottles from Emilio’s earliest vintages, the most memorable being a 1968 dolcetto that was still so alive, so expressive, yet so delicate and refined.
To be able to share these wines and this food with a couple that have been stewards of the same piece of land since 1963 is a fortune I have never taken for granted. It is truly a glimpse into a long bygone era, a rare insight into a life ‘come si viveva una volta.’ I have said it from day one – Emilio is an absolute gem and a quiet giant of wine in Piemonte. To have been able to support him and to have seen his wines being poured on some of the finest tables all over the UK has been one of the most rewarding experiences of this journey for me so far.